03-28-2024, 06:58 AM | #23 |
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I have that tool but forgot to take it with me to my Mum's (where I do my wrenching) so couldn't check it.
Perhaps 'timing' was the wrong word in terms in chain slack. As it's mainly idle speed and low rpm I noticed the improvement, it's probably more cam chatter than timing drift I think. In any case, what ever the reason for it, I'm taking the win as it certainly didn't make anything worse |
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03-31-2024, 11:13 AM | #24 |
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I did the chain tensioner this morning after first attempting it yesterday and slashing my arms to bits.
There is just enough room in the engine bay to get to tensioner, although you'd gain a bit more space by removing the scuttle panel. The tensioner is here and as Turboweasel said can only really be found by feeling for it, the borescope did help though. Yesterday I neglected to use a flexible extension which is essential to stop the socket slipping off the tensioner, I also had to buy a 24mm 6 sided socket as the 12 sided socket would keep falling off. I found this the best combination of tools for the job, torque wrench, small extension, flexible extension and 24mm socket. Comparing the old and new there was not much difference visually, the part numbers are different though and the internal spring on the new one seems much stiffer. The old one looks taller but that's just because I damaged the edges yesterday trying to remove it. They are the same height. Once the tensioner is in and hand tight it doesn't take much to torque it to 70Nm as it's a snug fit.
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03-31-2024, 12:44 PM | #25 | |
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Any improvements? |
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03-31-2024, 04:19 PM | #26 |
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Old one is 11318576201
New one is 11318490219 Engine seems a little quieter at idle, no noises coming from the chain area which is always a good thing! |
04-01-2024, 06:05 AM | #27 |
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Well done Bishbosh, glad you managed it in the end
Your setup with the universal joint is exactly what I used. As you say, when tightening it, you can feel the crush washer squashing down and then it stops turning. I stopped at that point as being soft aluminium, I didn't want to round it off. Exactly what I noticed as well. It just seemed quieter and more stable at idle and smoother at low rpm <1500rpm cruising. It wasn't a particularly noisy engine to begin with, but it did have a mechanical chuntering noise for want of a better description, but that has gone now. It just sounds like a smooth diesel idle with no other mechanical noises. Mine also had a sweat of oil back there as well. Not sure where that is coming from as there's no evidence of a cam cover leak, although yours does appear to be weeping slightly in the bulkhead corner. |
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04-03-2024, 08:55 AM | #28 |
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Looks like bishbosh has a nice VCG leak there! Very similar to mine, and my car had a new engine in late 2017. I have the gasket ready to go but its such a PITA job!!
Think i'll do my tensioner tonight! I completely forgot i ordered one a year ago and got spooked and never did it |
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04-03-2024, 03:15 PM | #29 |
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FOMO got me this evening and i also did mine Some notes from my experience:
1. It was a lot more fiddly than i expected. I ended up with a Britool Hallmark long flexi ratchet with a medium sized wobble bar. A UJ was too flexible for me to exert torque to break the bolt loose. 2. The tensioner bolt head was wet with oil before i removed it which was strange. 3. The Engine was installed late 2017. The new tensioner was around 2mm longer but significantly stiffer. Around double the stiffness. 4. The Engine sounds far smoother at idle. Before it idled with a bit of a 'wub wub wub' noise but that has totally gone. Not driven it yet. Very happy overall! Thanks for the suggestion. |
04-03-2024, 04:21 PM | #30 | |
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I noticed the tensioner bolt also had oil on it too, but couldn't see any obvious leak. Thanks for the heads up re the VGC, not a job I'll be looking forward to. In any case I have a big turbo fault to sort out first - it's not delivering the requested boost, so I suspect either pressure converter or vac lines. |
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04-04-2024, 05:17 AM | #31 |
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Ha ha sorry guys, I think I might have over sold it as an easyish job I am glad you've both seen a benefit in doing it though.
Regarding oil on the tensioner head when you remove it, I think that is just oil leaking out of the piston oil feed hole as you unscrew it. I've got a cam cover gasket sat in my parts box as well, but keep putting it off. BMW warranty touch it until oil is leaking onto the exhaust manifold, so I might just tackle it myself for preventative maintenance in the summer. Apparently the injectors come out easily on N57s, especially regularly used ones that are less likely to have rusted injector bores. Still need to get an injector seat cutting tool though. I've got the 6 x copper rings, which were a few quid each from the dealer. Maybe we should get together and have a cam cover gasket swapping party |
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04-04-2024, 08:25 PM | #32 |
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Awesome reports from other members is making me super keen to try it out too!
So, is it a case of unscrew old one and install new unit? Sounds really simple - is there anything to consider before or during the procedure at all? |
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04-05-2024, 06:51 AM | #33 |
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Yep, just unscrew the old one and stick the new one in.
If you still have your E92, check if it's an M57 or N57 first as the parts might be different. |
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04-05-2024, 05:48 PM | #34 |
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I’ve got a 2017 F1 335d - hope this is the right one!
I got the part today, but I think I’m out of my depth, I couldn’t find where to put it, you guys made it sound soo easy How much would I expect to pay a garage to install it for me please (roughly) Thanks |
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04-05-2024, 05:59 PM | #35 |
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It's not a particularly hard job, just access to the tensioner is awkward as it is right at the back of the engine, you can't see it by eye.
Need to take off the engine cover and the intake air pipe at the back as shown in my post above. So, lift off engine cover. Undo the silver hose clamp you see in the photo. Unclip the maf connector and lay to one side. Remove the torx screw holding the pipe onto the engine. Then unclip and remove the air filter. Lift off the right side part of the air filter at the base. The intake pipe should remove easily. I would expect to pay no more than an hour's labour.
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04-06-2024, 02:58 AM | #38 |
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04-06-2024, 11:06 AM | #39 |
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04-06-2024, 11:22 AM | #40 |
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£53.30 here on Vertu BMW eBay shop; use SPROUT10 for discount code:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386633453...7DXX2WCXY1XD5A
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04-06-2024, 01:51 PM | #41 | |
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04-06-2024, 02:53 PM | #42 | |
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Never had any issues myself; parts always landed within a few days
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04-14-2024, 10:58 AM | #43 |
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Did mine today,took a hour and abit few scratched knucles and alot of swearing.but done,car sounds quiter on idle not that it was loud to begin with,hard to explain but hardly any clatter,cars only on 42k so see how i get on🤞🏾
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04-15-2024, 02:37 AM | #44 | |
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I think the clattering I heard from mine must have been cam rattle. It was doing it ever since I bought the car on 38K. I thought it was the famous EGR clattering but that noise hasn't come back once since doing the tensioner a 1000 odd miles ago. |
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