[NxTH]

2013 N55 F30

The aim of this thread is to maybe finally put this leak in its place. I'm getting quite frustrated. Humor me for a moment here and let's hear what's going on.

Long story short:

- Wanted preventative maintenance, did pretty much all gaskets at an indy. They messed up the OFHG job. Twice on the same day. Since then, it leaked every few months and they tried to fix it via their warranty. Had to do rod bearings at a specialist.

- BMW specialist found out that the bolts were coming loose on the housing from vibration. Wrong torque specs. They no longer do, OFHG should be in order, six oily belts and six spillages later that would haunt me every few months. Oil was swapped to 5W40 from 5W30.

- I had a code come on during cold starts, a vanos code since the oil was changed. They figured maybe the oil doesn't get to where it needs to go fast enough so we swapped to 0W40. Codes were gone. Great. Until..

- Yesterday, a week after oil change I noticed what I think is the oil filter cap leaking. Cleaned it, went for three drives where I drove it like I stole it, no leaks. No codes. Nothing. Went for a fourth drive casually, came back, two small droplets were running down the cap seam. Went for a drive today, no leak. This is pretty much what would happen every few months randomly, but it used to be the OFHG, not the cap. About half a year ago they also suspected that maybe the cap is also leaking, so they changed it as well as a precaution.

- The cap now has a HENGST filter and oil was changed by a bmw specialist.

- BMW specialist told me that they have never seen this issue before where swapping filters and caps didn't resolve the issue. The next thing they suggest is swapping the entire aluminum block to rule it out. That sounds like such a waste especially since all the gaskets are so fresh. But maybe that's the only option left.

I have now however ordered an aluminum BMS cap, an OEM BMW filter and will try putting those on. If that doesn't help, I'm guessing it's time for an entirely new oil filter housing? I don't really want to go back to 5W40 either if that gives VANOS codes. There should be no reason that 0W leaks and 5W doesn't. There's something wrong if that's the sole reason it does so.

Send help...I might kick the bucket from stress...or part out.

[freakystyly]

There's no mention of the cap's O ring in your post so I thought I'd mention it. Make sure you lube only the O ring with a little bit of oil before tightening the cap. Ensure it is on the correct "rib" before tightening and always use a new O ring when changing oil. It definitely is an odd problem.

Other thing I could think of is the filter brand. MANN is a more reliable OE replacement.

[Billfitz]

There have also been reports that the O rings supplied with other than Mann or Mahle filters have been leaky.

[NxTH]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

There have also been reports that the O rings supplied with other than Mann or Mahle filters have been leaky.

That is very odd considering Hengst is marked as OEM. Why are they selling garbage..let alone a specialist putting Hengst filters on all cars. If they were worse, this issue would be far more common?

[Billfitz]

I don't know Hengst from Adam. It may be fine, all I'm sure of is that there have been reports of leaks that were solved when Mann or Mahle O rings were installed.

[freakystyly]

Originally Posted by NxTH

- BMW specialist told me that they have never seen this issue before where swapping filters and caps didn't resolve the issue. The next thing they suggest is swapping the entire aluminum block to rule it out. That sounds like such a waste especially since all the gaskets are so fresh. But maybe that's the only option left.

I still wouldn't go ahead and change anything besides the filter, O ring and maybe the cap in this situation. Also ensure the cap is tightened to the correct torque rating (or good and tight). It doesn't make sense for the housing to warp with coolant lines running through it.

[Shirazkhan]

Had an issue with a freinds car were the oil filter housing had a hairline crack,weirdly enough it would leak on some days and some days no leak at all.
New housing with cap fixed the issue.

[Burnout]

I would get oil collecting in that same spot until I switched to a BMS billet cap and now it’s always dry.

[NxTH]

Originally Posted by Burnout

I would get oil collecting in that same spot until I switched to a BMS billet cap and now it’s always dry.

That's what I ordered. Here's hoping.

[NxTH]

Originally Posted by Shirazkhan

Had an issue with a freinds car were the oil filter housing had a hairline crack,weirdly enough it would leak on some days and some days no leak at all.
New housing with cap fixed the issue.

How hard would something like this be to find? The specialist shop at one point when redoing the ofhg, took the entire housing, cleaned it in its entirety and inspected it. Can a crack still be missed 'easily' ?

In any case, all the parts should come next week including the aluminum cap so I'll have to see what that does.

[Shirazkhan]

I just replaced the housing,and the leak sropped,without actually knowing there was a crack.
The owner then took the old housing to a machine shop and they somehow pressurized the unit and found the crack.

[NxTH]

Went for another drive today doing about 135km/h for 30 minutes. Straight up leaked from the cap, and the cap only. Slow seepage from one area specifically. Will report back when I have had the aluminum cap for a few weeks or so.

[Billfitz]

I replaced my cap with the BMS years ago, not because of leaking but because aluminum sheds heat, plastic doesn't. With luck that will make the housing gasket last longer. Beware that the plastic cage that the filter sits on is transferred from the original cap to the billet cap, and it has a tendency to come off the cap when you're changing the filter, which can leave you wondering how to put it back together again. Worse, if you're not careful it can fall out of the cap and the parts will scatter.

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by NxTH

Went for another drive today doing about 135km/h for 30 minutes. Straight up leaked from the cap, and the cap only. Slow seepage from one area specifically. Will report back when I have had the aluminum cap for a few weeks or so.

Do not forget to install the filter cage with the metal cap.

[NxTH]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

I replaced my cap with the BMS years ago, not because of leaking but because aluminum sheds heat, plastic doesn't. With luck that will make the housing gasket last longer. Beware that the plastic cage that the filter sits on is transferred from the original cap to the billet cap, and it has a tendency to come off the cap when you're changing the filter, which can leave you wondering how to put it back together again. Worse, if you're not careful it can fall out of the cap and the parts will scatter.

The only part that has me guessing is that in the install video, the guy hits the cage in place with a rubber mallet..like is that really necessary? It doesn't click in on its own? Even after he hits it, it still wiggles as its probably supposed to, but it looks to me the mallet achieved nothing.

See here:

[Billfitz]

Mine was always loose, it's like the tangs in the cover aren't able to firmly grab the cage.

[NxTH]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

Mine was always loose, it's like the tangs in the cover aren't able to firmly grab the cage.

I don't think they should even. The small movement allows it to go in perfectly. If it was stiff, it could result in a situation where the cap can't be inserted. I'm just questioning the use of a mallet.

[visionaut]

Maybe it’s the finishing around the oil cap on your OFH?

pic 1: noticeable burr and edge raised above where your cap seals..

pic 2 & 3: BMW OFH front edge casting extension vs URO version with that front casting extension eliminated

pic 4: my BMW OFH showing properly finished casting edge - no burrs and machined flat to below the cap edge.

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by NxTH

I'm just questioning the use of a mallet.

I could see using a rubber mallet if the fit of the cage on the tangs was so tight that it was the only way to seat it. But that's not the case with mine, which is so loose that I have to take great care when installing it so that the cage and filter don't fall off the cap.

[eleven11]

Originally Posted by NxTH

How hard would something like this be to find

Have you or your shop used a fluorescent dye already?

Example: https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10-50...4142940&sr=8-5

[Jvac]

I also had a leak at the cap from a non oe filter w/ oring. That's common to read about. Replaced with oe filter kit and torqued the cap to spec and that was the end of it.

[NxTH]

Originally Posted by visionaut

Maybe it’s the finishing around the oil cap on your OFH?

pic 1: noticeable burr and edge raised above where your cap seals..

pic 2 & 3: BMW OFH front edge casting extension vs URO version with that front casting extension eliminated

pic 4: my BMW OFH showing properly finished casting edge - no burrs and machined flat to below the cap edge.

Seems like an interesting take. I bet that's what it is if the cap doesn't solve it. Maybe the aluminum cap seats better if that's the problem spot, or maybe it doesn't sit there at all. How BMW has allowed such quality to pass, I don't know. To my understanding this is the OFH that shipped with the car.